“Because it is there!” is the most famous phrase in mountaineering, a response by the late George Leigh Mallory when English journalists pressed him for the reasons impelling him to be the first to scale Mt. Everest.  Mallory died in his 1924 attempt (his body was only recently recovered by an American expedition), but his words live on and still serve as a valid reason for alpine venturing.

Here in Oregon, whenever the clouds retreat, a majority of the state’s population is within eyeshot of one or more of our major Cascade peaks.  The sight can easily become a challenge for the venturesome who aspire to the view from the mountaintop (this writer has succumbed to that lure multiple times, ascending Mt. St. Helens, Mt. Adams, Mt. Hood, Mt. Baker and Mt. Rainier, all but Adams more than once).

View north from South Sister by rbb7y on July 28 © 2001

The heavy alpine snows of winter begin to abate this month, marking the start of the Cascade climbing season.  The ideal climbing period on our high peaks is a short one, spanning only three to four months.  The loose snow from winter’s fall begins to solidify in March, providing safer and less exhaustive footing than earlier in the year.  March can still bring sudden and dangerous blizzards, but rarely.  As June approaches, the snow at high elevations begins to soften quickly to again hamper solid stepping.  Into summer, firm snow surface is usually only available during night and very early morning, and dangers from falling rock arise.

Hood’s siren call

Mt. Hood, backdropping a major share of Oregon residences and workplaces, is by far the biggest climbing draw in the state.  Closing on it at road’s end at Timberline Lodge, you gain the impression Hood’s summit is but a safe and easy ascent.  Yet this mountain has generated one of the highest fatality rates of any snowcapped peak on earth, principally because it looks so easy to climb.  It certainly is, in comparison to a majority of the world’s glacier-bearing spires, but it’s afflicted by sudden unpredicted weather fits, plus a careless misstep on its icy flanks can be just as fatal as tripping on Everest’s Khumbu Icefall.  And wherever there’s a glacier, there are hidden crevasses that can swallow unsuspecting alpinists.

This is by way of telling those who aspire to stand at the top of a major peak for the first time…seek an experienced guide to show you the ropes.  Click the address at the end of this article for a list of Oregon climbing guides.  The techniques and equipment for ascending Oregon’s greatest heights are easily assimilated from an expert.  Once an expert has led you to a top, you’re ready to do-it-yourself on subsequent climbs…with this vital caveat: never climb alone!  Also, carry a cell phone and a locator…the latter provides a signal for searchers in case of avalanche or other disabling accidents.  Three other vital items for any snow/ice climb:  ice axe, rope and crampons (the slightest doubt about slippage is addressed with these latter attachments to your boots).  We also advise toting a down sleeping sack…lightweight and lifesaving if you’re stranded by weather or accident.  Mt. Hood's Illumination Rock (around 9000 feet)  byNoah Megowan  © 2002

Timing is a key element in a summit assault.  It is always advisable, most particularly as summer approaches, to begin a climb in the morning’s very wee hours.  The footing is at maximum firmness and discomforting winds are generally absent.

Make no mistake…high mountains, above timberline, are an alien atmosphere.  Innocent-appearing white clouds in an otherwise clear sky can drift onto your path and create cyclonic wind,  temperature drop and total loss of visibility.  Glacial terrain is never stable, with ice cracking into chasms, sliding down in chunks and generating rock showers. 

Reviewing climbing choices

Mt. Hood is an obvious climbing target, and for this reason, we recommend that the south side, above Timberline lodge and adorned with a chair lift operating year-round, be avoided beyond March.  This flank of the mountain can get so crowded in spring and early summer that climbers sometimes are forced to pause in line.  We urge that more attention be paid to the north side of Hood as a climbing route.  While somewhat more technically challenging, this summit path has no population pressure.  It can also be rewarding as summer begins, because the north face has less sun exposure and a firmer surface.  Also, by June a forest service road up Cooper Spur to a parking area eases access to the heights. 

The old red chair lift at Mt. Bachelor by Bob Pool © 2001

The Sisters, west of Bend, offer three distinct climbing adventures.  This trio of glacial peaks requires a several-hour hiking approach from the nearest road.  South Sister is the easiest of the group and offers no technical challenges, but can be tiring due to unstable pumice covering the one practical route to the top.  Middle and North  Sisters require overnight camping at their base and a three day stay allows adequate time to top both peaks (each are far more of a challenge than their southern sibling).  Middle Sister is less daunting than her northern neighbor, but both require mountaineering experience for a safe ascent.

Mt. Jefferson is Oregon’s premier alpine climb.  At 10,497 feet,  Mt. Jefferson is Oregon’s second highest mountain.  Only an experienced climber can safely negotiate its steep snow, ice and rock faces guarding the one truly feasible summit route.  Situated in a remote wilderness preserve, Jefferson requires a minimum three-day hiking, camping and climbing commitment.  Rock climbing skill is a must here. The view from the top has spectacular variety.  Densely forested ranges pocked with alpine lakes march to the western horizon, while to the south and east lay the vast, arid foothills and plains of central and eastern Oregon.  Mt. Jefferson  from Jefferson Park. by Bob. Bolton © 2001)

Mt. Washington  Once you’ve gained rock climbing experience, Mt. Washington's narrow spire beckons.  This 7,800-foot monolith overlooks central Oregon’s resort playground.  It can be conquered in a single day with a technically easy ascent. Mt. Washington  by Bob. Bolton © 2001

A fine listing of Oregon climbs can be found at Summit Posts's Oregon Mountains  (The home page is at SummitPost.com. )

We heartily recommend taking a one day climbing school session before starting an alpinist career.  This adds to the safety and enjoyment of your initial climb..  For a review of Oregon alpine guides and services, click to:  http://www.i-world.net/oma/  The Everest photo at the top is a Summit Post climber's info link.  Here's a general information Himalaya page called  Shangri La   For a previous Oregon Magazine article about hiking the Himalayas, click here.
 
Text © 2002 Oregon Magazine